Eyeshadow can make a dramatic statement if you know how to apply it confidently.
Eyeshadow can make a dramatic statement if you know how to apply it confidently. iconogenic

STYLEwise: Out of the shadows

AUTUMN is a season of change and after spending weeks leading up to debutante time talking about makeup, colour, and getting "the look", I thought this week would be a great time to share some makeup application know how with one of the most difficult to apply - eyeshadow.

Know your types

Eyeshadow isn't only a pressed powder. There are creams, loose pigments, gels and crayons as well. Choosing which one to use depends on what you are after.

Cream eyeshadow is best used as a base colour, or when you want a single, solid colour.

Loose pigments are used for an intense colour (but remember, they are messy and best used by professionals).

Gels are fantastic as liners, used with an angle brush to draw lines, mostly on the water line or lash line.

Crayons are used just like in primary school - for colouring in a large area of the eyelid.

The pressed powder eyeshadow is probably what you're most familiar with, this is what you use to build colour, blend and create graduating shades.

Complementary colours

If you want to use a noticeably colourful eyeshadow, the first thing you should consider is the colour of your eyes. Certain shades of eyeshadow look best on certain eye colours. For example, bronze and gold highlight blue and light brown eyes, while violets pop with green eyes. Black liner and chocolate eyeshadow accentuate the darkest eye colours.

Importance of priming

Just like a face primer, an eye primer readies the skin for make-up. Your eyeshadow will last longer, the product will glide on smoothly, the pigments will be enhanced and you'll avoid dreaded creasing.

If you really want the full intensity of a matte shadow, use a white eyeliner or crayon to colour in a base before you apply the shadow.

Why eye shape matters

Are your eyes monolid, upturned, downturned, hooded, round or almond? If you don't know, you could be applying your make-up incorrectly my best tip here is talk to your beauty therapist or go online and see what certain eye shapes look like.

Apply within

Use a variety of brushes: a dense brush is great for solid application and applying pigment. Never wipe the shadow across the eyelid, always pat and dab for bolder colour.

A fluffier, lighter brush is for softer application, blending and highlighting. (A swiping motion is how you soften harsh lines and blend into the crease.) An angled line brush is used for tightening and drawing a flicked cat's eye.

Order of application

Always do your eye make-up first so that any shadow that falls onto the cheeks can be wiped off without ruining your foundation. A cotton bud dipped in eye make-up remover is a handy tool for tidying up eyeshadow.

Opinion is divided on when to apply mascara. Some say it's best done before the rest of your eye so that you don't overdo your eyeshadow. Others say the opposite, so that you don't overdo your mascara and don't forget your brows.

Apply these eyeshadow rules next time you are applying your make-up and see the difference.

Next time we get together it will be almost Mother's Day so we will have some advice on planning something special for yours.

See you then,

Sharon Fallon

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